Искусства и ремесла Средневековья

Embroide1·ies

181

Dшing Royal Progresses the streets were al,vays hung ,vith 1·ich cloth of gold. As Chaucer makes allusion to stгeets

н Ву ordinance througlюut the city large Hanged with cloth of gold, and not with serge,"

so Leland tells how the Queeв of Henry VII. ,vas con­ dнctcd to her coгonation апd " all the stгetes tlнough wЬich she shoнld pass ,vегс clencly dгcssed . . . ,vith clotl1s of tapestry and Aгras, авd somc stretes, as Cheepe, l1anged with rich cloths of gold, velvctts, апd silks." And in Machyп's Diaгy, Ье says that "as late as 1555 at Bo,v chшch iп London, ,vas hangyd with cloth of gold and with гich Апаs." The word " satin " is deгived fгош the silks of the bleditcrгaneaв, called " aceytнni," \Yhicl1 became н ze­ tani" in Italian, апd gгadually changed th1·ough Frencl1 апd English influence, to " satin." The first шention of it iп England is аЬонt 1350, ,vЬen Bishop Gгa11diso11 made а gift of choice satiпs to Exete1· Cathcd1·al. ТЬе Dalmatic of Clшгleшagne is e1nbroideгc{l on Ыне satin, altЬougl1 this is а rarc еагlу ехашрlе of the шate­ rial. At Constaпtinople, also, as early as 1204, Baldwin II. wогс satin at his coгonation. It was neai·ly always шаdе in а fieгy red in tlю early days. It is mentioned in а Welsh роет of tЬе thiгtec11th centшy. Benjamin of Tнdela, а t1·avelleг ,vho wrote in 1161, mentions that tЬе Je,vs ,verc liYing iп great numbers in Thebes, and that they шаdе silks theгe at that time.