Искусства и ремесла Средневековья

180 Arts and Cгafts iв tЬе l\Iiddle Ages

not every lady in еагlу times ,vho could have. such luxнries. It is said tЬat even the Empeгor Auгelian гefused his wife hег гeqнest fог jнst one single cloak of silk, saying: " No, I could never think of Ьнуiпg sпch а tl1iпg, fог it sells fог its ,veight in gold ! " Fнstian апd taffeta ,vere less costly, but fгequently пsed in impoгtant ,voгk, as also ,vеге sai·cenet and саmога. Velvet and satin wеге of lateг date, not occш­ гing until the thiгteentl1 апd foнrteenth centшies. Baнdekiп, а good silk and golden ,veave, was vегу populaг. Cut velvets with elaboгat e patteгns wеге made in Genoa. The process consisted in leaving the шain gгound in tl1e Ol'iginal fine гiЬ which гesulted from weaving, while in tl1e раttегв these little гibs were split open, шaking that рагt of а diffeгent ply from tl1e rest of the mateгial, in fact, beiвg the fiпisl1ed velvet as we now kвow it, '\\ 1 hile the gгouвd remaiвed uncнt, and had more the арреагавсе of silk reps. Velvet is first men­ tioned in Eвglaпd iв 1295, but рrоЬаЫу existed earlier on the Contiпeвt. Both Roge1· de ,v eпdoveг and Matthew Pai·is mention а stuff called " impe1·ial: " it ,vas partly gold in weave, but tl1ere is some douЬt as to its actнal textшe. Baudekin was а very costly textile of gold and silk which was used largely in altar coverings and hangings, such as dossals; Ьу degrees the пате became synony­ mous with " baldichin," апd in Italy the whole altar canopy is still called а baldachino.