Искусства и ремесла Средневековья

CHAPTER VI

EMBROIDERIES

ТнЕ materials used as gгoundwork for medireval embroideries were rich in themselves. Samit was the favourite - shimmering, and woven originally of solid flat gold wire. Ciclatoun \vas also а bгilliant textilc, as also was Cendal. Cendal silk is spoken of Ьу early wгiters. The first use of silk is interesting to trace. А monopoly: а veritaЫe silk trust, \Vas estaЫished in 533, iв tl1e Roman Empire. \Voшen \Vеге eшployed at the Сошt of Justinian to preside over the looшs, авd tЬе шanu­ factшe of silk was not allo,vecl elsewЬere. Tl1e only blndrance to this scl1eшe was that t,he silk itself had to Ье brought froш China. But in the 1·eign of Jнstiвiaп, two шonks who hali becn tгavelling in the Orient, brought to the ешрегоr, as curiosities, sоше silkworшs and cocoons. They oЬtained some long hollo\v ,Yalkiпg sticks, whicl1 tЬеу packed fнll of silkworms' eggs, апd thus iшported the producers of tЬе raw шateгial. Tl1e Ешореаn silk indнstry, in fabrics, embгoideгies, velYets, and such commodities, may owe its origiп to tЬis Ьit of monastic enterprise in 5.50. Silk garшents were very costly, ho\vever, and it was 179