Искусства и ремесла Средневековья

182 Arts and Crafts ш the l\1iddle Ages

Тl1еге is record that in the late eleventh centнry а Norman Abbot brought home from Apulia а quantity of heavy and fine silk, from which four copes wеге made. French silks ,vere not гешагkаЫе until the sixteentl1 century, wblle those of tЬе Netheгlands led all othcrs as early as the thi1·teenth. Slюt silks ,vere popular in England in the sixteentЬ century. Уогk Cathedral possessed, in 1543, а "vest­ шent of сhапgеаЫе taffety for Good Friday." St. Dunstaн is repoгted to have once "tinted " а sacerdotal vcstment to oЬlige а lady, thus depaгtiпg from his regular occupation as goldsmith to регfогm the office of а dyer of stuff. Many rich medireval textiles wеге ornamented Ьу designs, which usually show inteгlaces and aпimal forшs, and sometiшes conventioпal floгal orпaшcnt. Pattems oгiginated in tl1e East, and, tЬrougl1 Byzantine influence, in Italy, and Sai·acenic in Spain, they ,vеге adopted анd modified Ьу Europeans. In 1295 St. Paul's in London owned а hanging "patteгned ,vith ,vheels and t,vo­ headed Ьirds." Sicilian silks, and many others of the contemporary textiles, display vaгiatioпs of tЬе "trec of lifе " pattern. Tl1is consists of а little conventional shrub, sometimes lшrdly more than а "budding rod," ,vith t,vo Ьirds or animals advancing vis-a-vis on cithe1· side. Sometiшes tl1ese are t,vo peacocks; often lions or leopards and frequently griffins and various smaller animals. \Vl1enever one sees а little tree or а single stalk, no matter how conventioпally treated, with а