Искусства и ремесла Средневековья

Emb1·oideries

195

ing their valuaЫe time in manufacturing " gold laces with which to adorn persons and houses." The Floren­ tine gold lace was very popular iв England, in the days of Нешу VIII., авd later tЬе art was takcn up Ьу the "wire-dгa,vers " of England, and а native industry took the place of the iшported aгticle. Among pгo­ hiblted gowвs iв Floгence "·as one o,Yned Ьу Donna Francesca degli Alblzi, "а Ыасk mantle of 1·aised cloth: tЬе grouнd is yellow, and ОУег it аге \Yoven Ьi1·ds, parrots, butterflies, геd and wblte roses, and тапу figures in veгmilion and greeп, with pavilions and dragoпs, and yellow and Ыасk Ietters and trees, and many otЬer figнres of vaгious coloшs, the whole lined with cloth in hues of Ыасk and veпnilion." As one гeads this description, it seems as thoнgl1 the artistic sense as mнch as conscieвtious scruples migbl have гevolted and led to its banishmeвt ! Costumes fш toшnaments were also lavish in thei1· splendoш. Iн 1467 Benecletto Salнtati ordered шаdе fог sнch а pageant all tl1e t1·appiпgs fог t"·o lюгses, " 1 oгked in two hundгed pounds of silYer Ьу Pollajuolo; thirty poнnds of peaгls were also used to trim the garments of tЬе seгgeants. No ,Yonder Savonarola was enthu­ siastic in his denнnciation of such extravagance. Henry VIII. had "а pair of hose of ршрlе silk and Venice gold, woven like а caul." For one of his favoшed lady fгiends, also, there is ан iteш, of а certain sum "paicl, for one pound of gold for embroideгing а пight­ gown."